Friday, December 3, 2010

The Desert is Sopping Wet. Oxymoron?


And now for the big news...

I am no longer a PCT (trainee), but have officially been sworn in as a PCV (volunteer).  Please, no applause necessary... 

Me and my fellow YD PCVs after our swearing-in ceremony.

I arrived at my final site late last Friday night, after two long, hot and sweaty days of travel by train, taxi, bus, pick-up truck and foot.  I some how misunderstood my host dad's instructions to "wait at the bus station" and ended up being graciously kidnapped by a Berber speaking family, with all of my stuff in tow - lugging around two years worth of stuff is no small feat.  Suddenly, my "Intermediate-High" Darija language skills plummeted to zilch.  Thankfully, I was eventually able to figure out that this family was going to babysit me and force-feed me immeasurable amounts of couscous and sweets until my dad got off work - 8 hours later.  

I'm now living in Taroudant Province, 1 1/2 hours south east of Agadir.  This is where I'll be for the next two years.  There is one main road that goes through town - so far its the only paved road I've seen.  Otherwise, there's about 3,000 people in the town and an unknown number of surrounding villages.  It's uber-conservative here.  Most women in my town wear a loose outer garment and cover their hair Arab-style with a fulwar (veil, hijab), and the Berber women swaddle themselves in these beautifully dyed and printed lizars (sheets).  To be fair, school-age girls generally wear non-fitted jeans and tunic to knee-length tops and cover their hair.  Some men wear jelabas (long robes with hoods dangling in the back), but most of them wear jeans and t-shirts/button-ups, Western-style.

In other news, it's been pouring buckets non-stop for a week now.  I have to say, I was quite taken aback when the rain would not relent;  I naively assumed that it didn't rain much, if at all, in the desert.  Little did I know...  However, the sun decided to peek its head out today, but that doesn't make the muddy roads any more fun to trudge through.  I'm also apparently the only one in town who wasn't in on the joke, and thus do not own rain boots.
Things move at quite a slow pace here, which is definitely going to take some getting used to.  My first full day here I decided to venture out into the big, bad world to make photocopies.  It took me an hour to make twenty.  That was the only activity I accomplished that day.   I have spent this first week getting wlft, or accustomed, to my site.  I visited my gendarmes, khalifa, and basha (local government officials), and I was somehow able to communicate to them why I was there (At least I think I did.  There's a large chance that they took pity on my broken Darija and just "smiled and nodded" for my benefit).  

Otherwise, I've spent some time at my Dar Chabeb (DC) and Nedi Neswi (NN).  There are zero-to-five kids yet so far at the DC, but I'm hoping that's due to the torrential downpours and flooding of the past week.  Today, I spent three hours at the DC and a few lycee (high school) students showed up so I was able to talk to them about possible classes/activities.  We had an impromptu English session, and we finished the day with a healthy dose of ping pong.  I also met some of the ladies at the NN, and they have been lovely.  They have graciously attempted to teach me how to crochet, all the while making fun of my lack of ability in anything that has to do with yarn or thread.

As they say here, l'awn (good day).

2 comments:

  1. i love to read your blog its really interesting, i was born in agadir and i have lived in pennsylvania for 10 years. Now i am back to my native birth. My first year in usa was a big shock for me same as you now in morocco...lol

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  2. Best of luck to you as you begin this amazing journey! I know you are going to do great things. I miss that village ... say hi to everyone for me, and let me know anytime you'd like to chat. I've been there, so to speak.

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